Update
(10/2009): Steve
Rougier improved the software and schematics, see Conclusion
below
After
making my pyramid
mood light with 12 high power
leds, i decided to make a
bigger and
better version, without the emphasis on the low budget.. After all, the
pyramid mood lamp was more of a proof of concept with its
shortcomings. I wanted the new mood lamp to be more powerful,
so it could also be used in daylight conditions. I did this by using a
z-power 3 watt RGB power led. This one led is far more powerful than
the 12 ones combined i used before. The colors also mix better because
of the wider opening angle and because the rgb chips lay very close
together. But you better see it for yourself (please note: all foto's
are clickable for a biogger version):
Offcourse
a
video says
more than pictures, so here you can see the different operation modes.
I
also was not that
satisfied with the
diffused look of my previous led lamp in the shape of a pyramid. I had
to use sandpaper to
transform the transparant plastic casing into a diffused one, but when
you
look closely you could still see some areas weren't as diffused as
others. And so beginneth my quest for a bigger casing which had to be
already diffused...
And
i found
the perfect
housing! Behold: the Mylonit table lamp from Ikea.
They
come in two sizes: 31
and 45 cm high. Offcourse i bought the biggest version. Funny thing is
Ikea already offers this
lamp in different colours. But they all can only light up in one color,
the lamp i made can take all colors of the rainbow.
Parts You Need
Here
is a list of the
components i used for making the led mood lamp.
3 NPN transistors capable of
driving 500 mA, for
example
the BC337
one PIC 16F628(A) and a
programmer
a small perforated circuit
board
some 1 watt resistors (5, 10
and 15 Ohm) and a DIP switch
a power supply (5 volts,
1000 mA)
Ikea Mylonit lamp
silicon paste from your
local DIY shop
one z-power 3 watt rgb led
a little heatsink and some
cooling paste
Because i now use the 3 watt z-power led, i couldn't use
batteries
anymore. That's why i bought a small power supply. Update:
a
lot of people ask me where to find that led, so
here you
go.
General Layout
Here you see the z-power
led mounted
on a heatsink i took from an old video card. I drilled two holes and
two
screws hold the star shaped led in place. To conduct the heat better i
used some left over cooling paste that came with my cpu. A smaller
heatsink would suffice as well, but i had this heatsink gathering dust
in my closet, so...
To
avoid a
shortcircuit
i
first dipped the screw heads in some silicon paste and left it to dry.
If you take a closer look at the power led, you can see the 3
individual chips for the 3 colors. This led is so bright it's almost
impossible to look directly into it. Then i started building
the
circuit after calculating the values of the resistors. I changed the
calculated values a bit by maxing each color out and looking at the
color
of white it produced, as i'm not a such a fan of cold, blueish white.I
like a
warm tone better. This was
how my test setup looked like:
The
Circuit Board
Once everything was working like i wanted i soldered it all
onto a
small circuit board.
I
cut off one corner to get a better fit in the area under
the lamp.
This is the schematic i used: (see
below for improved
schematic by Steven)
All
i needed to do now was pasting it all together to the
lamp and
soldering the 4 wires from the led to the circuit board.
Programming The PIC 16F628
Microprocessor
I
have used
most of the
code of my pyramid lamp again, but i changed some bits (litterally).
Because i now have 4 switches (the one for switching the lamp on and
off isn't used anymore, now i use a power supply)
i wanted to add a random function. So you still have the fade and jump
to different preprogrammed colors modes, but these modes now also work
with random colors calculated on the fly. All of this combined with one
switch to choose between two different speeds and another one to pause
at any color the lamp is showing that moment. Update:
Here is the source
code along with some guidelines
to program the pic. Update
2: It isn't that hard to
program the pic. I uploaded the hex code to the
pic with
this very simple
pic programmer
and a program called ic-prog.
Conclusion
I
am really satisfied with
this lamp.
This was what i was aiming for when i first got the idea of building my
own mood lamp. I think this version definitely deserves the title 'mood
lamp' because it can light up a whole room with its colors.
On the left you can see the lamp still shines strong with other lights
on and on the right you can see the effect when all other lights are
out. In the back you can see the pyramid
lamp i made earlier.
Update
(10/2009): Steve Rougier was
so kind to share his improvements
on the
original code and schematic. These are the main improvements:
Bright flashes / brief
darkness in Random mode.
EEPROM routines did not
always work, colour not saved in Pause.
Lamp would flicker for high
values of fadespeed.
Updated the schematic with
more appropriate resistor values and added supply decoupling
Thanks
Steven! For
detailed info see the notes.txt file that is included along with the
source
codes and schematics in this zip file.